WHICH BIKE IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

A road bike is built to go fast on tarmac. The tyres are narrow (28–32 mm, thinner than two fingers), the handlebars curve downwards and you lean forward. Together these mean the wind slows you down less.

Within the type there are aero, endurance and climbing models; we work out which one suits you in the shop, by looking at the routes you ride.

Disc brakes are now standard. In the rain and on long descents they stop more predictably than rim brakes; the relationship between how hard you pull and how much you slow stays the same.

This is the bike for this region. The tarmac around Nevşehir is good and long; our team, out three days a week, rides mostly road bikes. Gülşehir–Avanos, Avanos–Göreme–Uçhisar, Avanos–Kalaba–Kayseri at the weekend… All tarmac, all long.

From a distance it looks like a road bike; up close you see the differences. The tyres are much wider (38–50 mm), the frame is longer and the fork sits at a shallower angle. These calm the bike on rough ground: it doesn't get thrown about when you roll over stones.

The gearing is lower. You notice this when you hit a steep climb with luggage on the back and water and gear on the front — where a road bike would have you out of the saddle, you stay seated.

The frame and fork have mounts for racks, mudguards and bottles. That's why a gravel bike is also a touring bike; you don't need a separate one.

Let's be honest: gravel is rarely ridden around here. Because the tarmac around Nevşehir is good, most riders settle on either a road bike or a mountain bike for the trails; hardly anyone on our team rides gravel. We still stock it, because for someone setting off on a long tour without knowing what the road will be like, it is the right tool — most foreign touring cyclists passing through Cappadocia arrive on gravel bikes.

There are two basic designs. A hardtail has suspension at the front only; a full-suspension bike has a shock at the back as well.

A hardtail is lighter, needs less maintenance and puts your pedalling power straight into the ground. For dirt roads and moderate trails it is enough — and more of the same money goes into brake, gear and wheel quality.

A full-suspension bike also absorbs hits from behind. On rocky, root-filled descents the wheel stays in contact with the ground more, which means grip and control. In return it is heavier and there is more to maintain.

Suspension travel is how far the suspension can compress when it takes a hit, measured in millimetres: with a 100 mm travel fork, the wheel can move up by as much as 10 cm. More travel makes the bike more comfortable on descents and heavier on climbs. Long-travel bikes have a slacker fork angle; they are calmer at speed and lazier in tight corners.

A dropper seatpost makes a big difference on technical ground. A lever on the bars drops the saddle so you can shift your weight back; after the descent it comes back up with one touch.

You sit upright. In traffic you see around you and others see you; there is little strain on the back and wrists. For someone riding 20–30 minutes a day, this is the right type.

Most have mounting points ready for mudguards, a rack, a kickstand, a bell and lights; some come with them fitted. A chain guard keeps oil off your trousers — it looks like a small detail, but if you ride to work every day it decides everything.

Trekking models are faster than city bikes and suited to longer distances. They handle light dirt roads too, so you can head out on a weekend tour.

Most use 20-inch wheels. Small wheels make it easy to accelerate but reduce comfort on rough ground; they don't soak up cobbles the way big wheels do.

Folding takes 15–30 seconds. It fits in a lift, a car boot and a bus. We show you once in the shop; the second time you do it yourself.

Saddle and handlebar height adjust over a wide range; people of different heights in the same household can use the same bike.

The hinge clamps need periodic checks. It's on our service list; when you bring in a folding bike we look at them specifically.

BMX means 20-inch wheels, a single gear and a strong frame. It's built for jumps and tricks, not for distance.

The dirt jump model in the shop belongs to the same family: a single gear and a strong frame, but with bigger wheels than a BMX; ridden on jump tracks and around town.

The frame and fork are thick because they're designed to land hard. For the same reason the bike is heavy; see that as a design choice, not a shortcoming.

Single-speed city bikes have few drivetrain parts, so maintenance is light. In return they make you work on hilly routes.

For this type a helmet and protection are a necessity, not a recommendation. Buy the elbow and knee pads the same day.

The common type is the pedelec: the motor only kicks in while you pedal, and there is no throttle. It doesn't ride the bike for you; it supports your legs.

In Türkiye, two limits decide whether it counts as a bicycle: continuous motor power no more than 0.25 kW, and assistance that cuts out at 25 km/h or when you stop pedalling. A bike within those limits needs no licence, number plate or registration. Anything above them is not a bicycle and falls under moped rules.

The motor sits in one of two places. A hub motor is inside the wheel and more economical. A mid-drive motor sits near the crank; the weight stays central and low, and it pulls harder uphill. Off-road, mid-drive is preferred.

Range is not a single number. Battery capacity (Wh), the assistance level you choose, your own weight, wind, gradient and tyre pressure all play a part. The manufacturer's range is measured in the most economical mode.

It weighs more than a normal bike. If you'll be carrying it up stairs or lifting it into a car, factor that in from the start.

A kids' bike is sized by wheel size, not frame size.

Age only gives a starting point. What matters is height and inside-leg length; two children of the same age can differ by 15 cm.

In the shop we check two things: when the child sits on the saddle, do their feet rest comfortably on the ground, and can they squeeze the brake lever without straining. If neither works, the bike is too big and it's better to wait a year.

Children who start on a balance bike (no pedals) learn to balance faster than those who start with stabilisers.

A chain guard looks like a small detail but matters on a kids' bike: trousers don't get caught in the chain and the child's hand doesn't touch the oily chain.

Stabilisers are not a permanent solution. They should come off a few weeks after the child learns to pedal; otherwise they delay learning to balance. We remove them in the shop free of charge.